The Gibb River Road

N: Our first stop was at the Mowanjum art gallery which was still on the sealed section of road, where they seemed to be making lots of money to fund the quirky new architecture which from the sky would look like the Wandjina (a major West Kimberly dreaming spirit) which would be quite a feat when completed.

We then savoured the 60km sealed section until the corrugations, sand and river crossings. We turned onto the Tunnel Creek road where we would stay at Windjana Gorge luckily it was only 23km down the road.

5km or so down the road we saw a completely new sign to us ‘creek crossing’ it scared us but luckily it was dry. We got to the gorge left the trailer and walked along the sandy trail spotting fresh water crocs in the Lennard River.

We got back. set up camp, had a cold shower, then had an experimental dinner of bacon, tomatoes and beans.

The next day we walked/waded through Tunnel Creek it was truly amazing and also home to a variety of water life; crustaceans, Yabbies and Catfish.

We then headed off to Bell Gorge.

Our first river crossing wasn’t that bad but after that they got progressively deeper, no problem for the X-Trail (thank goodness). Bell Gorge was great we had a swim in the pool below the falls a breathtaking sight and surprisingly warm water greeted us after the moderately difficult (very rocky) walk, we walked back in half light then set up camp. We packed up and set off to Manning Gorge where we would stay for 2 nights instead of the normal 1. We arrived and went to the river, where, when going on the walk to Manning Gorge, you had to swim across with your shoes and other gear in a polystyrene tub which were supplied on the side of the bank. We swam, then went back to camp for dinner. Georgie and I slept out under the stars with a mosquito net draped over the two stretchers. In the morning we got ready to go to Manning Gorge, we met another Victorian family who we accompanied on the walk. We stopped in the shade opposite the falls. The pool that the falls ran into was the deepest and covered the most area. We swam under the falls and to the other side where the noise was deafening, we swam back and mucked around a bit longer and then left. We had drinks with the family we met, I then I wandered back over and slept out again. We left for the longest day on the Gibb River road which was over 300km on the terrible dusty, corrugated road. We had lunch on the side of the Gibb River then proceeded along the road. ‘Thump’ what was that? Just a rock ‘thump’...‘thump’.... ‘thump’ ‘thump’ ‘thump’ ‘thump’ ‘thump’ ‘thump’. Damn we’ve got a flat, we walked out to hear a hissing sound and to see the tyre airless (we were also praying that the rim wasn’t busted).

After jacking the car, unscrewing the wheel, getting the wheel off, getting the spare out putting the spare on and at last putting the busted tyre away to then drive away. We were planning to get the tyre fixed at Home Valley Station, as where we just came was the roughest patch of road Home Valley mechanic had already had 18 tyres to fix. The fix was temperamental and couldn’t be fixed permanently (a side spike, we had bought new tyres for the car and trailer which had thicker rubber than the old ones, but the side/wall of the tyre is still weak which spelt disaster for us). We drove on to El Questro Wilderness Park where we would stay for 3 nights to explore the wonders and indulge in the facilities. We arrived after dark leaving us hungry and tyred (get it ha!ha!). We set up wearily and literally fell into bed.

The next day we did a 2.6km return walk to El Questro Gorge to have a swim.

The walk took us through rainforest areas and rocky banks of creeks and streams, we stopped at the halfway pool but it was too small and becoming quite crowded, so we went on to the next pool and swam there.

When we got back we did nothing until dinner then we saw the Buddy Tyson show which had whip cracking, lassoing, general stupidity and some alright but mostly lame jokes.

The next day we did a 9.6km return walk to Champagne Springs which had thermal springs and also a waterfall which ran into a pool.

The thermal spring was unfortunately covered in a green algae slime thing that looked and was completely disgusting.

We swam in the pool and walked back and went to bed early after the big day out.

We unfortunately had to leave on this day so we packed up, but we got to stop at Zebedee springs on the way to Diggers Rest station where we stayed next. We arrived at a crowded Zebedee springs but it was great anyway (the springs where thermal).

We finished the Gibb River road with only one flat “wahoo”. We had lunch in Wyndham then went on to Digger Rest Station were the movie “Australia” was being filmed starring Hugh Jackman and Nicole Kidman. We set up, watched some TV at the homestead and went to bed. The next morning we came to have our horse ride. After choosing our helmets we sat down and waited I went back to the car to put some stuff away then saw H.J I went back to tell the family Georgie didn’t believe me but I didn’t care then he came round to the bench we were sitting at and said; “how are you going gang” we said “pretty good” and he walked off and talked to his son.

Our horse rides were great, I went on a horse called Johnny who was pretty obedient (especially after Laddie the horse I had on my last horse ride). After the horse ride I played pool with an actor in the movie and beat her. We packed up and moved on to Kununurra.

Derby

N: The first thing in Derby that we did was visit the hollowed out Boab Prison Tree, it was used when transporting aboriginal prisoners from surrounding places to Derby.

Our first stop for accommodation was the Kimberly Entrance caravan park to see if they had cabins as a special treat for mum for her birthday but they didn’t have any available (because of the Rodeo that at the time we had no idea about) so we went to the Derby Lodge for a cabin but it wasn’t very inviting (all they had was 3 beds a broken TV and a tiny fridge) so we headed off to the Boab Inn who had two adjoining rooms (they didn’t actually adjoin).

We stayed there for the night throughout extreme partying because of the rodeo which was on that weekend (we surmised).

We then went to the caravan park until Monday when we headed off down the Gibb River Road (a treacherous, bumpy, corrugated road with river crossings) see next entry.

That afternoon we went to the rodeo to see the Buckjump and the Open Bull Ride, at one stage in the bull ride an angry heifer got out of the stockyards and ran around the rodeo grounds while every one climbed on or higher on to the stands to get a look at the cow and also to get out of its way, the only people who weren’t running away were a few station workers and the recovery team who chased the heifer everywhere and then finally cornering it in the stockyards opposite to where the other heifers and bulls where kept.

The next day we attended a special church service in the local nursing home for the disabled aboriginal residents, 2 Mowanjum people had come to attend and also to sing to them. Our two friends Wally and Margaret (Margaret was also mum’s old high school teacher) were conducting the service.

After the service we went shopping and then had lunch which was just sandwiches(as per usual), we then had a great swim at the Derby Memorial Pool.

We had dinner at Wally and Margaret’s accommodation and then slept, unsure of what lay ahead.

Derby and the Gibb River Track

Gg:
After the luxury (if you dare say it was luxurious ... I think it’d be better if I describe it as niceness, actually) of the Boab Inn, we stayed in the Kimberly Entrance Caravan Park—still in Derby.

The rodeo was on that weekend (or week maybe), too, so we decided to have a look. We were just in time for the end of the controlled horses, the whole section of wild horses and the whole part of the bulls buck-jumping. The wild horses weren’t too crazy or anything (but they were still quite rowdy), but the bulls were stubborn and much angrier than the horses (or possibly the bulls were simply stronger). The first bull refused to leave the ring for quite some time, though in the end the cowboys brought in the cows to lure him. The only other thing that stood out significantly to me was when a cow escaped and ran around a bit ... but was soon herded back into the ring where it rested for quite a while.

After Derby we began the Gibb River Road, with people commenting that “you’ll be fine, we got across with a Nissan x-trail and a camper trailer, too” and also that “ooh, you won’t be able to stand the rocks with that thing”. So we set off to find out which comment was right.

The first night was stayed at Windjana NP—Windjana Gorge. We did the Windjana Gorge walk and the next day the Tunnel Creek walk (claustrophobic in there, much to my disliking).

On the second night we camped in Silent Grove, and walked Bell Gorge. The swimming spot was beautiful; the cool water was perfect for that day.

Our third and fourth nights were spent at Manning Gorge, where we met another family.

On the Manning Gorge walk (to Manning Falls) we walked with the family and swam with them, and had drinks later that night ... so the day was lovely (only one problem ... but that’s the other family’s story to tell).

In El Questro, which was our next stop, we had many walks: the El Questro Gorge walk, the Champagne Springs (no that does not mean the springs dribble champagne, much to mum and dad’s disappointment, I think) walk, and Zebedee Springs (warm water ... mm).

The next day of driving was mainly spent on REAL SEALED ROAD (hallelujah, hallelujah, hallelujah, hallelujah!!!!!) and we drove through Wyndham to get to Digger’s Rest Station (where I fell in love with the kids ... no, no, no, the little young goats, those kids ... they sucked on your fingers since they thought they had milk).

Then the next day Noah and I had one hour horse rides and mum and dad had three hour ones ... but before those, have you ever heard of Hugh Jackman (Foxtel ads, X-men, The Prestige)????? Well for all of you who’ve heard of him, HE SAID, “HEY HOWZIT GOIN’” TO ME AND I REPLIED, “YEAH GOOD THANKS!!!” Because there’s a new movie named Australia they’re filming, and he’s in it with Nicole Kidman, and they were filming at Digger’s Rest, while we were there. If you see it, you’ll see a big boab tree (big at the bottom, then gets skinnier towards the top, with boab nuts) and I’ve touched it, as well as the Lucky Boab Nut (it’s really big, you can’t pick it, you’re not allowed).

N: 5/8 - 10/8 Cape Leveque

N: The road up to Cape Leveque was horrendous; the amount of swerving around the road to find the smooth bit was ridiculous, the road was a lot sandier then the Tanami which slowed us down, but added to the excitement which made the trip more interesting. We got to Beagle Bay missionary and stopped for lunch, also at Beagle bay was a church which its shrine was made up of pearl shells.

We got going and headed of on the last stretch, on arriving we were told that Cape Leveque boasted great swimming, fishing and snorkeling (at low tide).

After setting up camp we went down to the swimming beach to test the theory of great swimming, when we arrived at the beach after a walk over the board walk. The water was impossibly clear and warm.

The water as we get further north gets warmer. The next day fishing was tested and swimming we walked right around Cape Leveque to the fishing beach, we used squid as bait (see Dampier creek blog entry) we cast in and nothing until Dad felt the pull on his line he reeled as fast as he could and then let and continued to do so (he did this because the line he was using was not very strong at all, after being satisfied with the fishes physical strength the line broke what a pain in the ………. I gave up and went home empty handed, dad stayed on half an hour or so longer but to no prevail. We went back and relaxed in the hammock. The next day we attempted to snorkel at low tide as we told was the best time it sucked I knocked my shin on a rock it bleed and bleed. We tried fishing on the western beach which was closest to our camp. The waves were massive it literally pounded my line it to the dirt. We packed up and went to another spot on the fishing beach I cast in with dads rod while he prepared mine (he replaced the old line with new 25 pound line and because it is so big there you couldn’t get much line on the rod. Mum came and cast in her line “yawn” and wait hold on she got something, she reeled in a 28cm blue tusk fish to small chuck it back. That was all the excitement for the day, we came home once again.

The next day we made plans to drive down to the beach on an extremely sandy track it involved letting our tyres down to 18psi (the were all ready down to 24 at the front and 26 at the back) we drove down and thank goodness we didn’t get bogged, I caught a tiny something (Saddle Tailed Sea Perch?? Red Emperor??), we drove back empty handed once again and stayed our last night and left for Middle Lagoon. Where we set up camp on a extremely hot day, went for a swim, had an ice cream, had a shower, made a fire, cooked bread on the fire, went to bed, woke up, celebrated mums B’day with a massive breakfast.

Gg: After Broome

Gg:

Traveling north of Broome is Cape Leveque Road, which points to Cape Leveque, the hook above Broome you’ll see on maps.

Cape Leveque has a beautiful beach (no jellyfish may I add), clear blue-green water serving as a home to many, many fish and sea life including garfish—we think we saw one where we were swimming!

The waves had quite a variety of sizes, from “sashimi makers” (the big ones—that’s Noah’s name for them) to tiny bumps, so half the time we were running from the water, and the other half of the time we were just standing, unmoved, as well as body-surfing on the medium ones.

That wasn’t all the entertainment, though—fishing was a hit. In the first few seconds that mum had cast her line in, she caught what we thought was an undersized coral trout, but it turned out to be an undersized blue tusk fish. Also we liked watching the serious fisher people fillet their 16 or 17 kg and their 14 or 15 kg narrow barred Spanish mackerels.

Each night, Noah and Dad made delicious bread—sultana or plain—with the camping oven (using the tripod, you hang it over a fire).

Then we traveled not very far back down Cape Leveque Road to Middle Lagoon, yet another great place. Swimming and fishing were still two favourite things to do—and though we didn’t fish, some men offered us some sort of large fish (10, 11, 12 kg??), an offer we had to turn down (fine with me, I hate fish).

After Middle Lagoon, we traveled the rest of the way back down Cape Leveque Road, and turned off to go to Derby, where we are now. We have stayed the first night in the luxury of the Boab Inn (for mum’s birthday, 10^th August), and been out for dinner in a restaurant off Jetty Road (literally—it’s the jetty!).

Gg in Broome

Saturday –

Our first day in Broome, Saturday, we just hung around the caravan park and had a brief look around.

Sunday –

On Sunday, we had a better look around Broome and the beaches. Just beside the caravan park we’re staying in there’s Town Beach, and 6kms down there’s Cable Beach, the main one (but I’d rather a beach without jellyfish I think ...).

Monday –

Monday night was the first night of the Staircase to the Moon. It wasn’t the best night for it; it wasn’t really dark enough, but it was still quite beautiful to see. During the day, we had another squiz at Broome and swam in the beaches ... I was until I saw the jellyfish ...

Tuesday –

That night was the proper Staircase to the Moon, including the Staircase Market (it was something like that, anyway). You should have seen the crowd! There were plenty of people there to see the Staircase to the Moon and the market ... but just as the moon came up ... a cloud blocked it from view, aw!

Wednesday –

While the boys were at Cable Beach, mum and I walked into town, where we looked around: again! Well, you can blame us, Broome is really interesting! When we came back, we found that they were having another go at the market because of the last night’s mishap ... but I don’t think it went very well. Still, they tried!!

We spotted a photo of the perfect Staircase to the Moon, it happened a few years ago and that was the most beautiful picture of the moon I’ve ever seen.

Thursday –

The boys’ fishing trip! They caught a Wolf Herring, Spanish mackerel and some little fishies, while, once again, mum and I went into Broome!!

But also we saw Blades of Glory, the one with the guy from Napoleon Dynamite in it (“ohh, that movie!!”), in (or should I say out!!) the historical Sun Pictures outdoor theatre, which is pretty much in a (quite large) backyard, like a drive-in without the cars, with the only roof a blanket of stars. I know this is very commercial, but I recommend going there immensely – it doesn’t matter if you don’t like the movie, the jets that fly over the theatre are so low it’s amazing to watch (a gasp escaped the bewildered crowd as the jet flew gracefully over)!!

Friday –

This morning, Noah and the boy next door, Django, found a coconut lying in the middle of one of the caravan park roads and Noah had a mad attempt at opening it with the axe. He was successful, and somehow managed to slice the remaining pieces of coconut (the edible stuff, not the milk though) into two so Django had a bit and we shared a bit, but the problem was it was off, and only Django liked it, so in the end Django (who’s four, by the way) had a whole coconut to himself!!

Anyway, at the moment it’s lunch time (two o’clock to Melbournians) so I’d better go eat my soup, but at three o’clock, your five o’clock for all you people in Melbourne, mum and I will be sitting on camels, striding along the beach, and then later on all of us will be bunched up in a huddle, watching the sunset. I know it sounds kind of boring, but over here sunset is quite a tourist attraction!!

Broome - Fishing in Dampier Creek

N: We set off in the medium size boat with George our guide and ten other fishing hopefuls down Dampier creek. Dampier Creek was a massive saltwater water way that was amongst a maze of saltwater mangroves that were home to an array of fish.

It took half an hour before we got to the spot where we put in the first crab net in, the net had a lamb neck which is high in fat so the crabs can smell it. We put in other nets containing various other types of high fat meats. After putting in the nets we headed off to our first fishing spot where I didn’t even get a nibble (neither did dad I think), a girl was first to catch something she reeled in a Trevally which, lucky for her, was large enough, then a man behind me caught a blue nosed salmon which was large enough, he again caught some sort of ray which had tangled up with dad’s and my line (George had to cut our lines then attach another sinker and hook we soon got fishing again with no luck.

We set of down the river again and pulled out the crab nets nobody got anything until I pulled out a female crab that was too small so back it went.

We put the nets back in and went to another fishing spot where I got nothing again which sucked, a different man caught a Grunter (Javelin Fish) which became relevant to its name.

We pulled in the crabs I got another tin little crab which got out before I could pull it on board.

We went to our next fishing spot where everybody but me started to catch little fish Grunters and Trevally except for me. I got nibbles though dad caught dozens and then just as it seemed bleak I caught the biggest fish: a Narrow Barred Spanish Mackerel which was too small “great!” I cast in again and again and again, the bait just kept getting stolen until I cast it in again and caught a Wolf Herring which wasn’t edible. So we went back to camp with nothing!!!!!!

29/7 - 4/8 Basking in Broome

G: After 5,600 km we’ve arrived in Broome. Broome is WA’s answer to Byron Bay. Instead of ‘hippies with money’, the dominant tourist set here is the ‘Howard generation on super’. For instance, the local craft market doesn’t have a chai tent, sellers of incense or Buddha statures or that incessant bongo drumming. The famous Cable Beach is beautiful and pounds out friendly but powerful surf. The township is built on Roebuck Bay several kms from Cable Beach. The tourism industry is thriving with an odd combination of young European backpackers driving cheap beaten up cars and tent camping. And, the grey nomads in big 4WDs and all mod cons caravans or super ‘why leave home’ campervans.

We have been lucky to arrive in time to see the ‘staircase to the Moon’, a phenomena where Moon rise coincides with a super low tide over the mud flats that creates a scene that looks like a steps rising towards the Moon. Hundreds of people line the foreshore and vie for camera angles.

We are basking in the sunshine in Broome and enjoying a week off driving and dust. We have a fantastic campsite in a local caravan park from where we can gaze out over impossibly blue waters of Roebuck Bay. We are 50 metres from the water’s edge at high tide and 500 metres at low tide – the tidal range is 8 metres.

Unfortunately, today is howling windy and I was up at midnight banging in some extra tents pegs but otherwise it’s been very relaxing. We are having a week of hanging about the beach, Noah has hired a surfboard at Cable Beach, we've been out on a fishing trip on the Dampier Creek and the girls are going on a camel ride this afternoon.

We will hit the corrugations and dust again on Sunday when we drive up to Cape Leveque.