11/7 to 23/7 G's comments

G: Summary of go to here. First full day we made it across the border passed Renmark. We pulled off the road into Lyrup Flats NP. A beautiful river wetland area where the locals all seem to camp with their car bonnets up. Huh(?).

Next day was a very long drive via Morgan, Burra, Hawker through to Leigh Creek. We had tried to camp in Parachilla, a scene from a Western movie comprising pub, outdoor fire and collection of old railway workers’ cabins. However, there was no room in the Inn or even for camping as town was completely booked out with 200 American tourists. We drove on to Leigh Creek and stayed in a cabin. Luxury.

The adventure now really begins. The next significant town is Marree, the beginning of the Birdsville and Oodnadatta tracks. Marree was a significant station on the old Ghan train line that the Oodnadatta track follows. It also has the tin shed club rooms of the Lake Eyre Sailing Club! The Oodnadatta track commences with an ominous warning about entering remote country. The relics of the railway and mounds of ancient natural springs make this a fascinating route. We skirted Lake Eyre South, a vast basin with a mirage of real water receding. We stayed at Coward Springs, an oasis right out of an Abbot & Costello movie complete with date palms and camels.

The next day, more diverse country. The vegetation and landforms are constantly changing from green vegetation, red sand and undulating to flat arid and stony. We arrive in Coober Pedy, a fascinating but foolish place. It should have been our answer to Las Vegas.

It’s 750km from Coober Pedy to Uluru. The only saving grace for us was that it was sealed so we were spared dust and corrugation. Interestingly the camp and hotels at Uluru are called Ayers Rock Resort. The resort bit is to soften you up for the financial slug they charge for everything.

The next destination on the Central Australia has to be Kings Canyon. It truly is a wonder. You walk around an ancient eroded sandstone landscape that has created a palace of domes, rock pools and sheer escarpment.

From here we shook and rattled around the Mereenie loop to Glen Helen. About 200 km of dust, sand and corrugation, a warm up for the Tanami. We bush camped and awoke to a very frosty morning with the trailer water pump frozen.

After 3,600 km we have arrived in Alice Springs. Civilisation. Warm showers, no dust, kid’s playground. ‘Aah this is living Kel’. Three days to relax and prepare for the TANAMI. I feel it’s like a pending trial to which all our plans, contingencies, spares and communications may be tested. Not to forget patience over 3 – 4 days of rough road.